Triggers and Flare-ups Part 2 - Taking the heat out of the burn

I think the most frustrating thing with allergies and wearing makeup is reacting to an unknown part of a product.
I don't get hives on my face but a beautiful red rash, sometimes called a "butterfly mask", because of the way it covers the cheeks and nose.
This rash is not only red but burning hot, even with 5 layers of makeup on the heat can be felt.
So I've tried various things to cool it down, apart from physically putting an icepack on my face.  That cools it down, but does not treat the damage done to my skin.

An old fashioned remedy is Calamine lotion.  I always have a bottle of this around for when I'm ridiculously itchy and creams just irritate it more.
Especially in summer - high body heat+eczema+cream = unbearable night.
Calamine lotion soothes the itch but also drys out the already dry skin so it has to followed up the next morning with heavy moisturisation.

Creams that contain Zinc Oxide are also very good for helping with hives. I have a large tub of SudoCrem which I use on an as-needed basis.  Its great as a mask on hot hives and will soothe and cool the hives. A little bit goes a long way and a thick layer wont actually completely sink into the skin, and it makes a barrier.

I recently got a sample of Paulas Choice Skin Recovery Hydrating Treatment Mask. I got two uses out of the 3ml sample. I used it once at night and left it on as a sleeping mask and the next day underneath my maskeup as a primer.  It did work well, but it has to be ordered online and is $30AUD for 113ml.  It was very thick when I applied it and did not sting my poor skin.  That in itself was promising.

I have five full sized masks that I am trying out and I put in a huge order of samples from RoseRoseShop which arrived recently and includes a few masks - sheet and cream types.  So I won't make a decision about purchasing the Paula's Choice one until all of my testing is complete.  I seem to be on the search for the Holy Grail of masks for my skin.

Recent in store purchases

Palmers Cocoa Butter Purifying Enzyme Mask.  I bought this from Chemist Warehouse, but I've also seen it in Priceline.  Retails for under $10.  Not sure about this one - this was from a "freak-out-shop" after going to the Doctors.  Thinking was not occurring in my brain.

Quick Fix Facials Calming Clay Mask - For Red and Sensitive Skin.  I picked this up at Coles Supermarket, but its also available in Woolworths and Target.  Retails under $10.  Review coming soon.
Quick Fix Facials Mega Moisture Gel Mask - For Dry and Thirsty Skin.   I picked this up at Coles Supermarket, but its also available in Woolworths and Target.  It's under $10.

Dirty Works Rose & Glow Moisture Mask - With Rose and Vitamin E (and hyaluronic acid).  This I found at Target for $12.95.  Review here!.
Dirty Works Vitamin C Brightening Mask.  I picked this up also at Target for $12.95.

I don't expect a mask to perform absolute miracles, so what I expect from a mask is to remove a goodly amount of the redness and put some moisture back into my skin.  These are not regular treatments for my skin - in the case of calamine, its a last ditch effort before I turn to Prednisolone and corticosteroid creams.  I will go to these medications when the hives and inflammation start to spread down my body because that is indicative of a greater systematic problem.  Your skin's "turnover" can be anywhere from two to four weeks (*science time* technically a skin cell is around for 28 days before you shed the cell - going from the bottom of the epidermis to the top of the epidermis, but up to 48 days to replace the entire epidermis).  So it will take time for skin to recover from any trauma.  Skin will not recover overnight,

Corticosteroid creams/ointments will thin your skin over time, so avoiding these is a priority.  Also your skin can become used to these products and have a rebound if the corticosteroid cream is not used, which is just not fun.  Prednisolone has a plethora of side-effects which build up over time and mess with the immune system.  I have enough troubles with my immune system so I don't want to  damage it needlessly. I have also been taking Phenergan at night instead, but that also causes drowsiness and makes it hard to get going in the mornings.

It's really important to read labels to know what you are putting on your skin when you have allergies. What do you avoid in your skincare products?

Product Review : Dirty Works Rose&Glow Moisture Mask

I picked this up at Target about a month ago, just before Easter.  It retails for $12.95, but often can be included in 30% sales, which is when I bought it.
This particular mask is targeted as adding moisture back into the skin, seeing as my skin is quite dry overall and I get very dry patches on my cheeks I thought this would be good to help my skin while its recovering from allergies.  It's not meant to exfoliate the skin but has ingredients that will increase moisture in the upper layers of the skin.  It's applied onto the skin for 5 minutes and then washed off.

No roses were harmed in the making of this product.

Ingredients:
We can see that it has good ol' hyaluronic acid in (sodium hyaluronate) and collagen amino acids, both of these help to hold moisture in the upper skin layers, but glycerin is much higher in the list. Panthenol is another humectant which can also be useful in helping with skin irritations. 

I do admit when I first applied it, there was a bit of tingling (I always panic with a tingle!) but that settled after a minute and the rest of the time it was very comfortable.  I did not apply a thick layer and focused most of the product on my cheeks and forehead (being the driest areas).  Because it was only on for 5 minutes it did not have a chance to dry out and was very easy to remove.  I used a microfibre cloth and warm water.*
I then followed up with my usual layers of Indeed Labs Hyaluron serum and Avene Recovery Cream. But I did notice after I washed it off that my skin did look plumper and less dry.  However I haven't yet just washed it off and not followed up with moisturiser.  I seem to be stuck too much in a routine that I moisturise any time I wash my face.

*I've used this a couple of times and have increase the wear time.  I've actually kept this on for nearly 30mins once and it didn't go crunchy or dry, so it might have potential as a sleep mask.

There is a definite fragrance of rose (turkish delight-esque), but I happen to like it, so it was not too intrusive nor did it give me a headache.

I am definitely keep using this product and with the cold months now arrived I plan to use this more frequently through the week instead of a now-and-then treatment.  I might use this as a hand-treatment as well seeing as its so affordable (and easy to find!).

What masks do you use to keep dry skin at bay?

Hype Train: Asian Skin Care Haul

All aboard!

In my quest for skincare help during the beginning of this year, I stumbled across the Skincare Addiction Reddit Forum. Which then in turn lead me on the path to Asian Beauty Reddit Forum. Both of these forums have helped incredibly with improving my skincare routine.  Overall I have noticed that the SCA forum is more oily/acne based advice, whereas the Asian Beauty seems to have a greater variety of skin types and good advice for them.

However there is a *dark side*, they enabled the shopping!  I am still hunting down products that will stablise my skin.  I still love my Nivea Cream, but my dryness was getting worse.

So I eventually put in an order at RoseRoseShop, which is based in Korea and bought samples.  Do you know how excited I was to be able to buy samples?!
Just be aware that they charge shipping based on weight - so work out if it's more cost-efficient overall and keep an eye on products that have free shipping (I used that to my advantage in my second haul from there which-i-may-have-just-ordered-days-after-getting-this....).  I know here in Australia there is a considerable mark-up on products.  One item I bought from RoseRoseShop was ~AUS$8 (including the shipping cost share), if I bought that from a physical shop in Melbourne I would easily be looking at AUS$24 to AUS$30.  So this was very cost-efficient.  Its also difficult to source face masks, unless you regularly go to the CBD.
The Face Shop masks can retail for ~AUS$4 instore.  I could buy a pack of 3 masks for AUS$4 (again adding in the shipping cost share) via RRS, so this is a much more viable option.

I am trying to boost the amount moisture in my skin, when my skin is hydrated and smooth I look in my early 20's, but when its dry or recovering from allergies I can look late 30's (for reference I am 31, and I've been mistaken for a student in a class, not the teacher).

So here are some shots of my haul.  I've only *just* started trialling them because of a nasty allergic reaction which really ruined my skin.  Did not want to apply anything new until I was in the safe zone.

- [MIZON] Original Skin Energy Hyaluronic Acid 100 Samples 
- [MIZON] Multi Function Formula Snail Repair Intensive Ampoule Samples - started trialling on this
- [ETUDE HOUSE] Moistfull Super Collagen Ampoule Essence Samples 
- [MISSHA] Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Samples
- [It's Skin] Pure Moisture Gel Samples
- [TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL] Pumpkin Sleeping Pack Samples (damn cute, damn damn cute samples)
- [THE FACE SHOP] Rice & Ceramide Moisture Emulsion - 150ml
- [LANEIGE] New Basic Trial Sample Kit - Normal To Dry Skin (the lids aren't all the same blue >_<)

I will be putting up a review on the Snail Repair Ampoule as soon as I finish all the samples.  I get 2-3 uses from one sachet as I only apply it in the evenings.

Mask part of the haul

-[3W CLINIC] Fresh Mask Sheet - Collagen
-[THE FACE SHOP] Real Nature Mask Sheets - Aloe
-[THE FACE SHOP] Real Nature Mask Sheets - Rice (I've tried this one already, so this was a repurchase)
-[MISSHA] 3D Bamboo Sheet Mask

So there we finally have my first Asian Skincare Haul,
Now my immune system needs to play fair...

What are you loving from your most recent hauls?

Triggers and Flare-ups Part 1 - Always read the label

As much as I would like my skin sensitivity to be a relatively straightforward contact dermatological reaction, my reality is that I have allergies that are affected by what I eat as well, and environmental factors. So with Melbourne's fairly confusing Autumn weather, my hayfever is acting in a similar way as when its spring.  Such fun.

To say my immune system has been through some battering at the moment would be an understatement - what with getting sick and then having an alleric reaction last week (thanks rain). However I pretty much can rule out any thing I've put on my skin or eaten because I've been VERY strict with my diet at the moment.

I have the trifecta of immune issues - asthma, eczema (genetic mutation and lack of filaggrin) and allergies (with anaphylactic reactions for some triggers).
"Allergies get better as you get older", well no, in my case they have become worse.  The difference is that now I am more aware of what my particular allergens are.  I've been to a few Immunologists for this, not dermatologists as the issue is not just skincare - its the whole body.

I follow the RPAH Failsafe allergy diet 90% of the time (family celebrations excluded). I manage my diet quite carefully and have to make choices about my food and the long term effects.
This diet aims to eliminate Salicylates, Glutamates, Amines and Preservatives from ones diet to minimise immune system flareups which can present as hives, mood swings, migraines, increased blood pressure to name a few.

The worse culprit for me is Salicylic Acid.  Common use?  Aspirin - derived from willow bark.  Also found in these foods (not a full list, and the ones with an asterisk I simply avoid totally).

-tomatoes

-strawberries

-green apples* 

-onion*

-corn

-oranges*

-lemons (lesser extent to orange)

-mint family

This website : FedUp Food Intolerance Network is my go-to-guide.  

So if I wanted to have pizza for dinner - I could have it one night.  The in the week leading up to it my food would have to be to very plain and for about a week afterwards as well.  Only through my recent testing did I discover the enormous range of foods that have Salicylic acid in (like spinach, I love spinach, spinach does not love me).  Meals out and "treats" have to be calculated for the risk they will present.

Salicylic acid is found in many acne-treatment products, so I am very lucky that I don't get acne! Otherwise I'd be in a bother.  It is also the main acid used in BHA products, so I tend to look for AHA products for chemical exfoliation.  AHA's are better for dry skin generally and BHA's are targeted for oily skin.

How does diet link to skincare and makeup?  Read the ingredients list on the back of the product.  I had an allergic reaction to a dry shampoo and could not figure out why UNTIL I read that ingredient list throughly - Benzyl Salicylate was quite high on the list.  I have now become the crazy lady who reads the ingredient list in the shop and mutters to herself.  There has been a steep learning curve.  I wish Australian/US/UK products made it easier to buy samples like Asian products do, considering the high mark-up cost of products in Australia, trial-and-error can be very costly.

These allergies are the main reason why I dont like to use "organic" and "natural" products, because they frequently have the addition of oils or extracts.  For example the Natio Rosewater and
Chamomile Gentle Skin Toner (sounds lovely), but here's the ingredients:

Looking so innocent

Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Rose (Rosa Spp) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Cymbopogon Martini (Palmarosa) Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Oil, Ceteth-20, Fragrance (Parfum), Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glucose, Bisabolol.

Simply due to the orange oil being in there, this product is one I will avoid.  Oranges are one of the worst things for me to have (the sad part is I absolutely love the smell of orange).




Garnier Fructis Conditioner also has a range of essential oils, which sound lovely in practise, but in reality would cause an allergic reaction.

So friendly, how could it go wrong?

Aqua / Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Starch Acetate, Niacinamide, Saccharum Officinarum Extract / Sugar Cane Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Camellia Sinensis Extract / Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Pyrus Malus Extract / Apple Fruit Extract, Pyridoxine Hcl, Cetyl Esters, Citric Acid, Citrus Grandis Oil / Grapefruit Peel Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract / Lemon Peel Extract, Hexyl Cinnamal, Parfum / Fragrance,

I avoid Garnier Fructis as par the course - they always seem to cause a reaction - whether they have allergens in or not.  This is a brand I would suggest not using if you have uber-sensitive skin.

Sukin is a brand that touts itself as using organic and natural products, but make sure you carefully read those ingredients!  I was tempted to buy some of their range when Priceline had 3 for 2 recently, but there were no testers available so I just didn't risk it.  I've heard rave reviews about their Sensitive Cleansing Gel, but the presence of avocado made me wary, which I why wanted to test it first.

I'm organic, look I've got a leaf on my label.

Ingredients: Purified Water (Aqua), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Chamomile), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rose Hip), Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Citric Acid.




DermaSukin seems to be their hypoallergenic range - I have their Daily Gentle Wash and it is gentle enough to use on my face as well.  So bonus points for that.  I got this in a Goodie Bag from Priceline, I dont know if I would repurchase it.  It's not mind blowing in terms of what it does.

Only actual innocent one of the lot

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid.






It takes a lot of research and reading of labels to know what is safe and what to avoid, but the risk of having an allergic reaction makes the time spent researching very worthwhile.  I would say 70% of my shopping time is reading the labels.  And googling up Latin names of plants - I've learnt quite a few now.  I would say the next step of refining the products I use is to research the chemicals used in them and see if there's any connections to skin flare-ups, which there probably are.

Another area to be aware of is the Laundry Detergent you use.  I don't go near any supermarket laundry detergents.  Even walking along that aisle will make me sneeze!  I make my own laundry detergent, and have been doing so for around 3 years.  I use the recipe from the Down-To-Earth Blog and am very happy with how it works.  If I have a flare up (like now) washing gets put in the drier to make sure all nasties are killed/removed from heat.

My next post will be on things I've been trying to help reduce the inflammations in my skin, both for face and body.

Do any of you have allergies?  How do you manage it in your lifestyle?

When things go from bad to worse.

My immune system is taking a fair beating at the moment.

I've just gotten over the conjunctivitis I developed before Easter, but that itself caused a sinus infection.  Days of migraines from the pressure so I haven't been able to do very much at all apart from watch YouTube and go down the rabbit-hole that is reddit.

And thanks to Melbourne's very confused weather my allergies have gone nuts.  I haven't eaten anything that would cause a massive reaction like this and its very localised on my cheeks (butterfly rash/mask).  I currently have a red and sore face so am feeling quite sorry for myself.

I have applied my Avene Cicalfate about 3 times today and yesterday as well, but gave in this evening and applied a light layer of a cortisteroid cream to help it settle overnight.

I managed to test some products before everything went crazy, so I will be posting them up over the next few days, but at the moment, sticking to my trusty products. But I know it will take up to week to settle down realistically.  I'm also going to have to stick to the stricter version of the RPAH Diet for a while.

Does anyone else get bad allergies when it rains and then clears up?  Or get irritated skin when you actually get rained on?

Brand Review : Avene

My first foray in Avene was the thermal water sprays.
I got the smallest size (50ml) in a goody bag from somewhere.  I stuck it in my handbag and grew quite attached to it over summer.

Then it was on sale at Chemist Warehouse where it was get two of the 300ml for $20.  I bought 4 in total. One lives at work in my desk and the others get used in my routines, especially if I have a major flareup and I don't want to use an acidic toner (the thermal wate rhas a pH of 7.5 - neutral).  I also use the thermal water to soak masks when my skin feels dry (similar to the cloth masks from Face Shop etc).

The one at work is used most often to refresh my makeup if my skin starts to feel dry.

From the Avene (Australia) website: "Avène Thermal Spring Water is classified in the "water with low mineral content" group (low-mineralised) with a calcium bicarbonate and magnesium profile. Amongst its main characteristics: high silicate levels, low sodium levels, a calcium-magnesium ratio of 2 (expressed in mg/l of minerals) and a wide variety of trace elements."

Source : Avene Center website

The Avene Center website states that these minerals help with the epidermis and restoring the skins barrier.  As well as having anti-inflammatory benefits.

As a scientist I am aware of the placebo effect, but I cant figure out how I would get a placebo effect for skin care.

So it works.  Otherwise I would not be waxing lyrical about this range.

The items below are the 4 main products from Avene that I use on a regular basis.  They are all gentle and pretty much do as they claim.  I tested them all out before I bought them, because I am paranoid. And my skin is a brat.  A high maintenance brat.  

They are a pricier product, but I tend to buy them when Chemist Warehouse has a sale on, or Priceline.  However most of the time its a better deal at Chemist Warehouse. I would assume that other chemists would have Avene as well.  Price point would be similar to that of L'Oreal Paris' skincare products.

I've spoken about the cleanser before in an earlier post.  Its not a foaming cleanser, I would say it produces a very fine lather when used on damp skin .  This is also described as a "tissue off" cleanser so you don't have to use water to remove it, thus allowing the actives to soak in more.  I tend to wipe it off anyway because of how I have structured my routine.  Its not the best at removing waterproof mascara or matte finish lipsticks, so I double cleanse in the evening.

The Skin Recovery Cream Calming Formula is a what I use if my skin is looking red.  I usually layer it on several times over the day if possible.  It is a light cream so doesn't feel greasy when applied generously.  I'm now onto my second tube of this product.

I really have rubbed it on the right!

Ingredients: Avene Thermal Spring Water (Avene Aqua). Paraffinum Liquidum. Squalane. Dimethicone. Glyceryl Stearate. Butylene Glycol. Glycerin. Behenyl Alcohol. Ozokerite. Benzoic Acid. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter. Carbomer. Chlorphenesin. Phenoxyethanol. Tetrasodium Edta. Triethanolamine. Xanthan Gum.


Cicalfate Restorative Cream is a thick soothing cream - Zinc Oxide does this task. It is used to help make a barrier for inflamed and dry skin. I use this as an alternative to a cortisteroid cream if I can. Its not a cream you can put on and then apply makeup like the Recovery Cream.  This is thick and occlusive but it works a treat.  If I had to choose which one of these products I would pay full price for, it would definitely be this one.

On the right is about the thickness I use as a top layer

Ingredients: Avene Aqua, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), Glycerin, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Zinc Oxide, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Aluminum Sucrose Octasulfate, Aluminium Stearate, Cera Alba, Copper Sulfate, Magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Sulfate, Microcrytalline Wax/Cera Microcristallina, Zinc Sulfate.

I might add more of their range to my collection, I have been looking at the serum and the masks for sensitive skin.  Keeping an eye out for sales :D  

Avene is clever in that they make themed "packs" of their products.  So I picked up the Sensitive Skin pack which contained a 50ml Thermal Water, the cleanser and the Recovery cream.  This is a much more cost effective way of buying several products.  .

I find it really weird taking photos of my arm, anybody else find this?

Addicted to: Maybelline Color Tattoo Eyeshadows

Such pretties.

In case we weren't sure from the above photo, I do love the Color Tattoos.  I have 13 currently and have seen somewhere a mint, a bright green and a pale blue.  I might have to acquire them the next time I see them.  Usually at the little makeup stalls that pop up in shopping centres.

Initially I bought three - the Taupe, Rose Pink and Grey.  After using them for a while I decided I needed all of them.  The hardest ones to get were the Barely Branded and Bad to the Bronze.  I managed to get two of them from Catch-of-the-Day as well - the Fuschia and Sandy, as I had not seen these in the shops.

As the name suggests, they do last all day, I haven't tried the "24hr" bit because well there has been no call for it...  To remove I do oil-cleansing in the evening (as I tend to have issues with eye-makeup removers) but the Garnier Miceller water also works with a few passes.  Makeup wipes don't seem to touch them at all.  If you use a specific eye-makeup remover, use one made for waterproof mascaras.

Annoying we here in Australia don't have near the range that the US has.  But I endeavour.

Now onto the pretties:

Too Cool : an iridescent white, sheer but you only need a little bit, a very light hand is needed. This could also work as a highlighter.  Feels like a hybrid of a cream and gel.
Audacious Asphalt :  a metallic grey (not as dark as I would like), but still buildable for a mid-smokey eye
Painted Purple: a bright metallic royal purple, very good colour payoff (however purple is my favourite colour so I am biased), but it is a little drier than most of the range.

Sandy Shores :  a shimmery sheer and iridescent yellow, very brightening
Bad to the Bronze : very pigmented bronze - I have used it as an eyeliner, very creamy
Tough as Taupe: the only matte I have seen in this range.  The texture is the driest of them, so makes it hard to blend on the eyelid.  Least favourite.

Tenacious Teal - reminds me of peacock feathers, this is gorgeous and great accent colour
Bold Gold - a rich mid-toned gold, its not near as bright as Sandy Shores,
Inked in Pink - looks lovely with the taupe for a quick day look, a metallic rose and applies easily,  The most used of the collection.

Silver Strike; VERY pigmented and is easy to over do and look like your eyelid is a disco ball
Barely Branded - a bright creamy beige that is shimmery, can be used as an eye-shadow base, great for the inner corner eye highlight.
Blue - a great midnight metallic blue, strong pigmentation, I like to use as an eyeliner
Fuschia - a bold and bright purple with good pigmentation

Ideally the formulations of these would be the same, but some are easier to apply than others.  I use a brush to apply these, usually a lipstick brush because the denser bristles pick up the product better. Warming up the product helps, as does working it over with a brush.  I dont use my fingers to apply these because I am not skilled.
I am planning to keep the little jars they come in as they are sturdy and made of glass.

I haven't had any sort of reactions to these products, which I why I have invested in them.  I believe they are a silicone based product and my skin doesn't have issues with silicone overall.

What have your experiences been with the Maybelline Eye Tattoos?
Any suggestions for other cream eyeshadows?